CHAPTER XIII
NAGARA. FESTIVAL OF BUDDHA'S SKULL-BONE. OTHER
RELICS, AND HIS SHADOW.
Going west for sixteen yojanas,[1] he came to the city He-lo[2] in the
borders of the country of Nagara, where there is the flat-bone of Buddha's
skull, deposited in a vihara[3] adorned all over with gold- leaf and the
seven sacred substances. The king of the country, revering and honouring
the bone, and anxious lest it should be stolen away, has selected eight
individuals, representing the great families in the kingdom, and
committing to each a seal, with which he should seal (its shrine) and guard
(the relic). At early dawn these eight men come, and after each has
inspected his seal, they open the door. This done, they wash their hands
with scented water and bring out the bone, which they place outside the
vihara, on a lofty platform, where it is supported on a round pedestal of the
seven precious substances, and covered with a bell of /lapis lazuli/, both
adorned with rows of pearls. Its colour is of a yellowish white, and it
forms an imperfect circle twelve inches round,[4] curving upwards to the
centre. Every day, after it has been brought forth, the keepers of the vihara
ascend a high gallery, where they beat great drums, blow conchs, and
clash their copper cymbals. When the king hears them, he goes to the
vihara, and makes his offerings of flowers and incense. When he has done
this, he (and his attendants) in order, one after another, (raise the bone),
place it (for a moment) on the top of their heads,[5] and then depart, going
out by the door on the west as they entered by that on the east. The king
every morning makes his offerings and performs his worship, and
afterwards gives audience on the business of his government. The chiefs
of the Vaisyas[6] also make their offerings before they attend to their
family affairs. Every day it is so, and there is no remissness in the
observance of the custom. When all the offerings are over, they replace the
bone in the vihara, where there is a vimoksha tope,[7] of the seven
precious substances, and rather more than five cubits high, sometimes
open, sometimes shut, to contain it. In front of the door of the vihara, there
are parties who every morning sell flowers and incense,[8] and those who
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wish to make offerings buy some of all kinds. The kings of various
countries are also constantly sending messengers with offerings. The
vihara stands in a square of thirty paces, and though heaven should shake
and earth be rent, this place would not move.
Going on, north from this, for a yojana, (Fa-hien) arrived at the capital
of Nagara, the place where the Bodhisattva once purchased with money
five stalks of flowers, as an offering to the Dipankara Buddha.[9] In the
midst of the city there is also the tope of Buddha's tooth, where offerings
are made in the same way as to the flat-bone of his skull.
A yojana to the north-east of the city brought him to the mouth of a
valley, where there is Buddha's pewter staff;[10] and a vihara also has
been built at which offerings aremade. The staff is made of Gosirsha
Chandana, and is quite sixteen or seventeen cubits long. It is contained in
a wooden tube, and though a hundred or a thousand men ere to (try to) lift
it, they could not move it.
Entering the mouth of the valley, and going west, he found Buddha's
Sanghali,[11] where also there is reared a vihara, and offerings are made.
It is a custom of the country when there is a great drought, for the people
to collect in crowds, bring out the robe, pay worship to it, and make
offerings, on which there is immediately a great rain from the sky.
South of the city, half a yojana, there is a rock-cavern, in a great hill
fronting the south-west; and here it was that Buddha left his shadow.
Looking at it from a distance of more than ten paces, you seem to see
Buddha's real form, with his complexion of gold, and his characteristic
marks[12] in their nicety clearly and brightly displayed. The nearer you
approach, however, the fainter it becomes, as if it were only in your fancy.
When the kings from the regions all around have sent skilful artists to take
a copy, none of them have been able to do so. Among the people of the
country there is a saying current that "the thousand Buddhas[13] must all
leave their shadows here."
Rather more than four hundred paces west from the shadow, when
Buddha was at the spot, he shaved his hair and clipt his nails, and
proceeded, along with his disciples, to build a tope seventy or eighty
cubits high, to be a model for all future topes; and it is still existing. By the
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side of it there is a monastery, with more than seven hundred monks in it.
At this place there are as many as a thousand topes[14] of Arhans and
Pratyeka Buddhas.[15]
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NOTES
[1] Now in India, Fa-hien used the Indian measure of distance; but it is
not possible to determine exactly what its length then was. The estimates
of it are very different, and vary from four and a half or five miles to seven,
and sometimes more. See the subject exhaustively treated in Davids'
"Ceylon Coins and Measures," pp. 15-17.
[2] The present Hilda, west of Peshawur, and five miles south of
Jellalabad.
[3] "The vihara," says Hardy, "is the residence of a recluse or priest;"
and so Davids:--'the clean little hut where the mendicant lives." Our author,
however, does not use the Indian name here, but the Chinese characters
which express its meaning--tsing shay, "a pure dwelling." He uses the term
occasionally, and evidently, in this sense; more frequently it occurs in his
narrative in connexion with the Buddhist relic worship; and at first I
translated it by "shrine" and "shrine-house;" but I came to the conclusion,
at last, to employ always the Indian name. The first time I saw a shrine-
house was, I think, in a monastery near Foo-chow;--a small pyramidical
structure, about ten feet high, glittering as if with the precious substances,
but all, it seemed to me, of tinsel. It was in a large apartment of the
building, having many images in it. The monks said it was the most
precious thing in their possession, and that if they opened it, as I begged
them to do, there would be a convulsion that would destroy the whole
establishment. See E. H., p. 166. The name of the province of Behar was
given to it in consequence of its many viharas.
[4] According to the characters, "square, round, four inches." Hsuan-
chwang says it was twelve inches round.
[5] In Williams' Dictionary, under {.}, the characters, used here, are
employed in the phrase for "to degrade an officer," that is, "to remove the
token of his rank worn on the crown of his head;" but to place a thing on
the crown is a Buddhistic form of religious homage.
[6] The Vaisyas, or bourgeois caste of Hindu society, are described
here as "resident scholars."
[7] See Eitel's Handbook under the name vimoksha, which is
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explained as "the act of self-liberation," and "the dwelling or state of
liberty." There are eight acts of liberating one's self from all subjective and
objective trammels, and as many states of liberty (vimukti) resulting
therefrom. They are eight degrees of self- inanition, and apparently eight
stages on the way to nirvana. The tope in the text would be emblematic in
some way of the general idea of the mental progress conducting to the
Buddhistic consummation of existence.
[8] This incense would be in long "sticks," small and large, such as are
sold to-day throughout China, as you enter the temples.
[9] "The illuminating Buddha," the twenty-fourth predecessor of
Sakyamuni, and who, so long before, gave him the assurance that he
would by-and-by be Buddha. See Jataka Tales, p. 23.
[10] The staff was, as immediately appears, of Gosirsha Chandana, or
"sandal-wood from the Cow's-head mountain," a species of copper-brown
sandal-wood, said to be produced most abundantly on a mountain of (the
fabulous continent) Ullarakuru, north of mount Meru, which resembles in
shape the head of a cow (E. H., pp. 42, 43). It is called a "pewter staff"
from having on it a head and rings and pewter. See Watters, "China
Review," viii, pp. 227, 228, and Williams' Dictionary, under {.}.
[11] Or Sanghati, the double or composite robe, part of a monk's attire,
reaching from the shoulders to the knees, and fastened round the waist (E.
H., p. 118).
[12] These were the "marks and beauties" on the person of a supreme
Buddha. The rishi Kala Devala saw them on the body of the infant Sakya
prince to the number of 328, those on the teeth, which had not yet come
out, being visible to his spirit-like eyes (M. B., pp. 148, 149).
[13] Probably="all Buddhas."
[14] The number may appear too great. But see what is said on the size
of topes in chapter iii, note 4.
[15] In Singhalese, Pase Buddhas; called also Nidana Buddhas, and
Pratyeka Jinas, and explained by "individually intelligent," "completely
intelligent," "intelligent as regards the nidanas." This, says Eitel (pp. 96,
97), is "a degree of saintship unknown to primitive Buddhism, denoting
automats in ascetic life who attain to Buddhaship 'individually,' that is,
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without a teacher, and without being able to save others. As the ideal
hermit, the Pratyeka Buddha is compared with the rhinoceros khadga that
lives lonely in the wilderness. He is also called Nidana Buddha, as having
mastered the twelve nidanas (the twelve links in the everlasting chain of
cause and effect in the whole range of existence, the understanding of
which solves the riddle of life, revealing the inanity of all forms of
existence, and preparing the mind for nirvana). He is also compared to a
horse, which, crossing a river, almost buries its body under the water,
without, however, touching the bottom of the river. Thus in crossing
samsara he 'suppresses the errors of life and thought, and the effects of
habit and passion, without attaining to absolute perfection.'" Whether these
Buddhas were unknown, as Eitel says, to primitive Buddhism, may be
doubted. See Davids' Hibbert Lectures, p. 146.
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